UNE Mountaineering Club


Yarrowyck Bouldering Guide - Car Park Boulders

WARNING

Access to this climbing area is through the Yarrowyck Nature Reserve and the boulders themselves are on private property. You need permission from the landholder (Ben Christians <benjhla at hotmail.com>) and must not climb on any boulders inside the reserve itself. If you have any doubts about where the boundaries are please contact the landholder or the club.


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Candy For Jeff Boulder

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C1 * Jeff's Traverse V4 SDS Traverse flake from right to left finishing at the Jug below C3  
C2 **   V7   Links C1 into C3 p
C3 *** Candy For Jeff V6   Straight up from shallow pockets p
C4   Nervous energy V6   Mantle at large hold for left hand into scoop  
C5         Open Project  

Karma Boulder

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K1     V3   Sharp crimpy face choosing line of least resistance  
K2   Rama V9   Up left side of overhang  
K3   Keith the Moravian Swearing Bear V1   Mantle at right side of overhang  

Tim's/Jeff's Boulder

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T1 ** Rooflet V00   Undercling small rooflet to Mantle for full value  
T2   Pete's Layaway V00   Lay away flake  
T3     V1      
T4     V00   Mantle up the Arete  
T5     V00   Mantle on face  
T6     V0   Very low SDS (AKA Liedown) if you are keen  
J1     V000   Easy mantle from Jug then up slab  
J2   Jeff's Crimp Problem V5   Start low at J1 then tend left to crimp on slab and up.  
J3 *** Stolen Moments V2   Start right hand on RH Arete then jump high to left arete then up  
J4   Scoop V2 SDS Obvious flake into scoop  

Ben's Boulder

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B1 ** HIYS V3   Reach high to crimp with right hand then up  
B2   Fun If You Are Bored V0   Start to the left of tree and jump to lip  
B3   Sit Down if you are Bored V00   Up featured Arete  

Mike's Crack Boulder

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M1     V3   Mantle at obvious holds  
M2   Withering Heights V6 scary Line of edges up high face (top-rope problem)  
M3   Cirque du Soleil V6 scary Hard at top but with a good rest in the middle  
M4     V0   The arete  
M5     V00   Undercling overlap and up  
M6   Ben's blunt arete V2   Thin edging up slab on blunt arete  
M7 The Crack V00      
M8   Thin Slab V5   Thin slab at start tending towards M6 to finish  

Warm-up Boulder

W1 * Jeff's Warm-up Traverse V1   Traverse the lip from left or right  

 

Carl's Boulder

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C1   Bit of a Bummer V0   Start with left on incut sidepull at face level. Mantle.  
C2     Blinkers V0   Both hands on high edge and top out  
C3   Project     Lower start for C2 off sloping edges  

Ant Eater Boulder

A1 * Anteater V3   Start about 1m to the left of the prominent nose and don't come off!  

Highball Boulder

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H1   Open Project   Scary Up crimps to easy slab  Rope decent
H2 *** Magic Garden V5 Scary Jump to the large edge then a couple of hard moves then easy to the top. Please dont hurt the plant.  Rope decent
H3   Open Project   Scary Bulging start on small crimps  Rope decent
H4  ** Foot fighter V7 Scary Start on sidepull to the left of arete then up to finish on ramp  Rope decent
H5   Project   Scary Up right Arete  Rope decent

Matt's/Very Nice Boulders

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M1   Blue Haired Matt V5   Starts standing on the ground with boulder close behind  
M2 ** Cubin V6 a bit scary Obvious  
             
Vn1 * Scott's Mantle V4   Start on large flake at chest height  
Vn2     V3      
Vn3     V1   Left side of face  
Vn4     V2   Right side of face  
Vn5 *** Jeff's Excellent Problem V3 Straight up from right sidepull
Vn6 V4   Pull on with undercling and thin sidepull at full span.  

Denial Boulder

D1 ** Denied V1   Starts on Obvious slopers at lip, then jumps high to a jug on the Arete.  

TSR Boulder

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Tsr1 ** Bensday V0      
Tsr2     V3      
Tsr3     V2 SDS    
Tsr4     V0      
Tsr5   Wednesday V6 SDS Start low on edges then high with left hand to small sloper  
Tsr6     V1      

Mantle Boulder

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Mb1 * Two palms down V1   Up the obvious scoop.  
Mb2 * One palm down V2   A bit technical  
Mb3     V0      
Mb4   Vans ascent V1      
Mb5     V3   A bit obscure  
Mb6     V000      

Gordo's Bloc/Angela's Boulder

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Gb1     V4   Burly undercling to traverse out right with feet at break  
Gb2   The sound of one palm slapping V5   Same start as Gb1 but with direct finish  
Gb3   Tim's Bum V0   Up Bum  
             
A1 *** Ange's mantle V6   Impossible! Mantle on large edge at head height.  
A2   Tim's poxy problem V5      

Group Effort Boulder

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Ge1   Feisty V7   Start at slopers on the lip then desperately to a small edge  
Ge2 ** American Matt V5   Starts with left hand in large crescent shaped edge  
Ge3 * Gordo's prob#1 V3      
Ge4   Gordo's prob#2 V2      
Ge5 * Dihedral V1   Trad climb or jump to the lip  
Ge6   Tim's Face V5   Hard problem to solve  
Ge7 ** Ben's Slab V6   Technical smearing for both the foot and hand  
Ge8   Ben's Face V6   Sexy  
Ge9   Roscoe's Mantle V4      
Ge10   Matt's Mantle        

Throb's Boulder

T1 * Throb's Prob V6   Crimps on face up to loose flake on slab  

Reve Boulder

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R1 *** Nanjanuka V12   Thin but not to bad up to the hardest move in the wold  
R2   Good Vibes V4   Left hand Arete  
R3   Carl's Dream V2      
R4   Poxy Slab#1 V2?   Up poxy slab  
R5     V000   Crack and also descent off boulder  
R6     V1   Traverse lip from right to left until you get too scared  

Fat Bastard Boulder

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F1 *** Fat Bastard V5   Starts on the small crimps on the face then up.  
F2     V3   Up Arete then into F1  
F3     V2   Climbs face left of crack. Jump to edge with left hand.  
F4     V0   The Crack!!!