Stonehenge bouldering guide
WARNING
Bouldering can be hazardous. The editors
of this guide accept no responsibility for
inaccurate information, or for any controversial
grades of routes. The editors also assumes users of
this guide have a high level of climbing ability,
will have received training from a rock climbing
instructor, will properly use appropriate
equipment and will take great care for their and
others safety.
Stonehenge is a great bouldering spot with 60+ routes on some great shaped rocks. The rock is typical New England granite with lots of crimps, flakes and great friction. And where else can you park right next to the problem you're working?
Even though stonehenge has seen active bouldering for some time a lot of history isn't recorded so any feedback on history, routes, names and grades would be greatly appreciated!
Location
Stonehenge is about an hours drive north of Armidale and about 5 minutes south of Glen Innes. It is just a few hundred meters north of 'Balancing Rock' which is sign posted.
See Google Map
Route Codes and Pictures on Flickr
Each route has been given a unique code to help identify it. This guide has also been intregrated with Flickr (an online photo site) so that the most interesting pictures for a route are shown. Click on the thumbnail to view other pictures of any route. You can help contribute photos for this guide by using Flickr and tagging your photos with 'bouldering' and 'stonehenge' and its route code, eg 'ne10'.
| Route |
Grade |
Name |
Comments |
| NE1 * |
V0 |
|
Up the prominent nose, easy but exposed all the way to top. Jump off NE2 |
| NE2 |
V1 |
|
Slightly harder face climb |
| NE3 |
V0 |
|
Nice face climb |
| NE4 * |
V1 |
|
SDS, to pinch, under cling and then smear to top right |
| NE5 * |
V0 |
|
Start at horizontal crack, crimps and smear with good hold right at the back |
| NE6 |
V00 |
|
|
| NE7 |
V00 |
|
|
| NE8 |
V00 |
|
|
| NE9 |
V0 |
|
Crimps up onto slab. Watch for rabbit holes when you fall |
| NE10 |
V00 |
|
Nice crimps up slab. For bonus points try the no hands bridging hopping problem up just to the right |
| NE11 |
V0 |
|
Several mantle problems |
| NE12 * |
V1 |
|
crimps, then verticle rail to top |
| NE13 * |
V2 |
|
Sharp crimps up arete then awkward mantle |
| NE14 ** |
V2 |
|
Jump to crimps, traverse right and then mantle |
| |
V6? |
|
SDS off burly undercling |
| NE15 |
V1 |
|
V shaped match then slap to top |
| NE16 * |
V1 |
|
Starts at what looks like a chipped hold |
| NE17 ** |
V8 |
|
Thin ledges to shallow right pocket, left pinch and then up to the right |
| NE18 ** |
V2 |
|
|
| NE19 |
V00 |
|
Loose easy flake - choose your own adventure |
| NE20 |
V0 |
|
|
| NE21 |
V1 |
|
Thin slab |
| NE22 |
V5+ ?? |
|
Hard thin over hung moves |
| Route |
Grade |
Name |
Comments |
| C1 ** |
V5? |
|
Lots of thin sharp stuff facing the wrong way and then a nice cresent way up high |
| C2 * |
V1 |
|
Has 'Gents' painted on the rock |
| C3 ** |
V1 |
|
Start at flanged crack and reach up to cresent, don't use the jug to the right |
| C4 * |
V0 |
|
|
| C6-10 |
V000-V0 |
|
Choose your own slab adventure! |
| Route |
Grade |
Name |
Comments |
| SW1 |
V5?? |
|
|
| SW2 |
V4?? |
|
Glued on hold near top |
| SW3 |
V0 |
|
Traverse crack |
| SW4 * |
V1 |
|
Awkward bulge |
| SW5 |
V0 |
|
Mantle |
| SW6 |
V3?? |
|
|
| SW7 * |
V1 |
|
Nice holds, bad landing |
| SW8 |
V3? |
|
|
| SW9 |
V1 |
|
|
| SW10 |
V00 |
|
|
| SW11 |
V00 |
|
|
| SW12 |
V0 |
|
|
| SW13 |
V00 |
|
|
| SW14 |
V0 |
|
|
| SW15 |
V00 |
|
|
| SW16 * |
V1 |
|
SDS with two shallow monos wide apart, up to cresent |
| Route |
Grade |
Name |
Comments |
| S1 ** |
V2 |
|
SDS under the mushroom |
| S2 |
V0 |
|
|
| S3 |
V1 |
|
|
| S4 |
V0 |
|
|
| S5 |
V0 |
|
|
| S6 |
V000 |
|
Easy slab |
| S7 |
V4?? |
|
Highball |
| S8 |
V0 |
|
Trend left |
| S9 |
V0 |
|
Same start as S8 but reach right to jug |
| S10 * |
V1 |
|
Pull down NOT out! |
| S11 |
V0 |
|
Using only left side of crack |
| S12 |
V0 |
|
Using only right side of crack |
| S13 |
V0 |
|
|
| S14 |
V00 |
|
|
| S15 |
V0 |
|
|
| S16 |
V0 |
|
|
| S17 |
V6?? |
|
Start looks impossible but decent further up |
| S18 |
V6? |
|
|
